Surreal Spiti.

By Mansee Shah.

Mansee travelled to Spiti on a trip organized by India Untravelled in June 2012, and is back to take us on a virtual journey around Spiti.

I travelled to Spiti in June 2012. I had not even heard of the place before I came across this site  http://indiauntravelled.com/trips.html, fell in love with a snap posted on it, and decided that I wanted to visit there. I checked with a few friends if they wanted to join, but unfortunately they could not, due to work / social engagements and the works. Anyways, the enchanting photograph was still in my mind and I decided to travel solo. Joined a trip organised by India Untravelled and had one of the most awesome experiences ever!

The beauty of Spiti lay in the diversity of the place – hard rocky terrain, gushing water, snow capped moutains, greenery (though in bits and pieces– otherwise it is rocky terrain) and the beautiful monasteries…all of it just awesome  Surrounded by the Himalayas, you will find yourself seeing the varied beauty of the mountains while doing ordinary things like sipping tea, having lunch or just plain gazing.

Tying prayer flags in Spiti.

Interacting with the locals was so engaging – they are so hard working and yet so simple. I especially fell in love with our guide – Tsering, and this cute couple in a Dhaba.

The cutest couple at Chandra dhaba.

Some of the must visit places in Spiti are:

• Kaza, a vibrant town which has a petrol pump at highest altitude levels.
• Tabo, the most charming place in Spiti – be it the charming people, the 1000 year old Tabo monastery, the caves, the souvenir shops, everything is just heart tugging.
• Dhankar, whose monastery is precariously perched on the mountains, and Dhankar lake.
• Trip from Demul to Komic — if you are fit, its a moderate 4-5 hours trek. If you are unfit (like me  ), then opt for a yak.
• Komic, a charming village and homestay, also do send some postcards from the highest post office in Asia at Hikkim (close to Komic village)

Hiking back from Dhankar Lake.

Locking horns mountain goat.

The secret lives of the lamas (monks) of Spiti!

We missed out on Pin Valley and Chaandrataal lake due to landslides but pictures show they are extremely beautiful locations so definitely “must dos” if in Lahaul - Spiti Valley.

The best and the worst part about the trip was the journey. Worst because the road from Manali to Kaza is quite rocky and is not for the faint hearted who are used to travelling smooth. But if you do manage it, I can promise its the most awesome journey ever. You will always be worried about dozing off because you dont want to miss a single moment of natural exquisite beauty. Cannot describe it in words. Especially loved the Kumzum pass   There are some moments when the entire body is smiling and you feel just happiness and quiet joy within. I experienced that there 

Enchanting times.

Go experience that you!

Author Bio: When she is not slumming it out at work, the author enjoys the good things in life - yummy food, appealing books, interesting movies, vivacious conversations, and of late, she has started to enjoy exploring various locations as well.  She writes sporadically at http://mansee-pov.blogspot.in/  and http://manseelikes.wordpress.com/ and tweets @ManseeT.

For more stories off the beaten path in India, visit www.indiauntravelled.com or join India Untravelled on Facebook and Twitter. To contribute guest posts / photo essays to this blog, please send your story ideas to shivya@indiauntravelled.com. 

Tabo: An Alternative Guide.

By Aditi Rao.

Aditi travelled on an India Untravelled trip to the high Himalayas of Spiti, and is back to take us on a virtual journey along Tabo monastery, which dates back over a 1000 years.

If the monastery at Tabo is a checkmark on your to-do list, listen to the guides, and go there at 9 AM, when the gods are ready to meet the tourists.

If you want to catch the gods when they are more at ease, ignore your guide, and go there at sunset. The temples will be locked, sure, but the gods are around, relaxing after a long day of meeting with pilgrims and tourists. They have time to chat.

The monastery at Tabo, minus the people

It doesn’t matter if this is your first day in Tabo; you can’t not find the gorgeous mud structures. There is no way not to notice the piles of engraved rocks — no way not to know that this spot, with its broken wall and open gate, is sacred.

Once inside, close your eyes. Listen to the river gurgling in the distance, the birds who know to keep their chatter to a respectful volume. Open your eyes, and watch the mud temples and walls against the crystal sky. Watch the sky tracing the outlines of the larger mud walls, the mountains in the distance. Breathe in the prayers of a millennium.

Carvings around one of the temple doors in the monastery.

That might be the most important thing — breathe deeply. You will need that air later.

If you are there to ask the gods for favors, I won’t promise that they will answer. They are off duty (would you pick up a client’s call at midnight?). But if you are there for conversation, there to listen to the secrets they have been keeping for a thousand years, there for friendship rather than for favors, I’m willing to bet you will not be disappointed.

The main stupa in Tabo.

The locals tell me that one must walk clockwise through this monastery. I trust them on that — you probably should too. All the same, the first time I went in, no one had told me yet to move clockwise, and so I didn’t. I moved from structure to structure, as they called out to me, beckoned me over. I ran my hands over the engravings on the doors, and I sat down to write outside the temple of the mother goddess. I had my back to her, and I wondered briefly how she felt about that, but ultimately, she didn’t seem to care. She knew I meant no disrespect. I was there for love, for friendship, and I think she understood that. I think that meant more to her than did the direction in which I walked or faced.

A family from Shimla comes up every summer to cultivate these fields of green peas in Tabo.

As you walk out, stop by the shops. The shopkeepers, who have been just as busy with tourists all day as the gods have been, have time to talk in the evening. Let them tell you about what brought them to this town — or what leads them away from this town every winter and brings them back every spring. Let them tell you about another god and where you can meet him, April to October, for a week at a time (it doesn’t matter if you don’t want to meet him — it’s good to know anyway). Let one of them invite you home for tea or sell you a scarf for your mother. Let them explain to you the flags that tourists will buy. Let them give you the stories that cannot be bought.

Walk to the river. Get lost. Let a farmer tell you which way to go, allow you a shortcut through her fields. Let yourself get more lost in those fields when she disappears before you’ve found your way. Accept the slosh of your shoes wading through just-irrigated fields. Stretch your arms into a T, learn to balance on the narrow raised ledges crisscrossing through the fields. Find your way through the barbed wire, back at the mud structures.

Green relief against the desert's starkness.

Go into the monastery one more time. If you’re lucky, it is now dark enough for the stars. If you’re really lucky, there is no moon, and the stars have free reign of this particular night. Walk through the monastery again, this time by starlight. Walk silently — the gods are probably asleep, and so is most of the town.

Relish being awake and alive amongst resting gods. It may be the closest you ever come to godness.

Birds against a crystal sky.

Author Bio: The author is a writer, educator, and dreamer. She currently works in New Delhi, blogs at http://aditirao.net, and lives everywhere she can.

For more stories off the beaten path in India, visit www.indiauntravelled.com or join India Untravelled on Facebook and Twitter. To contribute guest posts / photo essays to this blog, please send your story ideas to shivya@indiauntravelled.com.